Digital subscribers can listen to this article. Subscribe today for unlimited access to Texas Monthly. Already a subscriber? Log in. During a whirlwind 24 hours in Paris this month, I was in the city just in time to catch a glimpse of a solar eclipse. I came to eat at Melt, a Texas-style barbecue restaurant chain that opened nearly a decade ago. In 2023, cofounder Jean Ganizate and his team attended the Texas Monthly BBQ Fest, in Lockhart, and he pleaded with me to visit his restaurant, but I wanted to come unannounced as I do at barbecue joints in Texas. When I had successfully snuck into Paris and Melt—the original Oberkampf neighborhood location—without him noticing, he was miffed that I hadn’t reached out to him…
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