Suarez Restaurant has a patina that belies its age. The restaurant looks decades old, despite having only been open for six and a half years. Outside, a pit room greets customers, while inside, knickknacks are placed perfectly on wall-mounted bookshelves, photos of the menu items plaster the walls, and customers gather around lacquered wood tables. What’s more, most of the diners seem to be senior citizens—at least first thing in the morning, when I visited. The Laredo restaurant is small space with a long line and seating that’s hard to come by. Customers just have to share tables. My friend and I asked an elderly couple if we could sit across from them, and they happily asked us to join them. “It’s all about community,” says…
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