Twenty years ago, and five years before Franklin Barbecue opened in Austin, Aaron Franklin’s brisket got its first newspaper coverage. He and his wife, Stacy, had held a backyard barbecue in Austin, but it wasn’t featured in the local paper. Instead, the Big Bend Sentinel, in Marfa, had the scoop in its May 13, 2004, issue. “This was no ordinary back yard affair,” Alex Manley wrote in that month’s Buen Provecho column (found here on page five), in which she compared Memphis and Texas barbecue. It was Marfa’s—and the world’s—introduction to the brisket that would make Franklin famous.I sat down with Franklin and Manley in Austin a few months ago to delve into the details of the article. She was a chef at Maiya’s in…
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