From a replica of a horse-and-buggy on the roof to the papier-mâché cowboy “customers” playing cards at a table inside, the quirky splendor of Country Kitchen is a lot to take in. “It is unique,” says 71-year-old owner Scott McLean, who took over the 61-year-old Lampasas restaurant when his late father, C. D. McLean, retired in 1992. “Sometimes I walk in in the morning and think, ‘Oh my gosh.’ ” C. D. was an avowed treasure hunter who bought the restaurant in 1976 and filled almost every inch of its wood-paneled walls with tchotchkes and oddities. Scott, who began working at the restaurant in 1983—in part to hold down the fort while C. D. was off antiquing—doesn’t share his father’s passion for picking but admits he can’t bring himself…
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