When I first visited Brendyn’s BBQ, in Nacogdoches, six years back, owner Brendyn Todd offered a sample of a coffee-rubbed brisket alongside a conventionally seasoned one. I liked the coffee flavor so much, I urged him to ditch the other. He did, but it took me far too long to return to see just how far he’d come since those food truck days. Todd opened a permanent spot in 2020 in a building he now owns, and his barbecue joint has become locally beloved.“We had an overflow of daily loyal customers,” Todd said of his motivation for expanding. His timing gave him reason for pause when the COVID-19 pandemic set in just after he made the move. Todd worried about his business, but the locals…
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