The invention of sliced bread, for all the acclaim it occasioned, offered little more than an ergonomic advantage. It spared mothers’ fingertips and accelerated the proliferation of the PB&J, but the ingredients in the humble loaf remained the same: flour, water, salt, and yeast. The big disruption in dough—the one we will litigate in the culture wars in perpetuity—has been less celebrated. As World War II concluded, 14,000-odd years after humans started eating bread, the industrial-agriculture giants changed the recipe, adding azodicarbonamide, potassium bromate, soy lecithin, and other additives whose names are hard to read and to pronounce. The flavor remained the same, more or less, but loaves became quicker to mass-produce and more resistant to mold. If certain thinkers on the right are to…
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