In 2023 I walked up the driveway to Susie Hamilton’s tinsel-encrusted 1970s home, clad in green bell-bottoms and a polyester blouse, to attend the fourth annual Aspic Invitational. Thrilled to have scored a coveted invitation, I quivered with anticipation almost as much as my entry—an herb-infused lemon gelatin column layered with goat cheese, fig, almond, and pears, and studded with Thai basil flowers—did.Much to my surprise, I was declared the winner at the end of the ceremonial judging, but maybe I shouldn’t have been shocked; other contenders included gelled potato salad, a clam chowder bombe, and a dramatic reenactment of Aunt Bethany’s kitty kibble Jell-O from National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation. My aim to make something edible and in line with modern flavors and textures paid…
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