When Laredo-born chain restaurant Taco Palenque opened a location in Monterrey, Mexico, in 2022, there was apprehension that it would fail, as Taco Bell, another U.S. import, did in 1994 and again in 2009. The prevailing theory was that Tex-Mex, like California-style Americanized Mexican food, certainly wouldn’t gain a foothold there.Such skepticism didn’t make sense to me, and the naysayers have quickly been proven wrong—Taco Palenque seems to be thriving in Mexico.Taco P, as it’s colloquially called, was established in 1987 by Sinaloan immigrant Juan Francisco Ochoa Sr., who had developed his own take on border foods, including the restaurant’s signature pirata: two flour tortillas wrapped around a swath of refried beans, beef fajitas, and yellow cheese and crisped on a flattop. The pirata is…
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