By any measure, Lucas McKinney had a fantastic thing going. Last summer, the 29-year-old Mississippi-born chef, a veteran of Houston’s prestigious Underbelly Hospitality group, landed a seasonal job cooking at Jimmy Kimmel’s famed South Fork Lodge, in Idaho. The work was fun, the site stunning (“The most beautiful place I’ve ever seen in my life,” says McKinney), and the owners (Kimmel and fishing guide Oliver White) appreciative. “Come back next year,” they told him. Around the same time, he had also taken a consulting job in Houston for a new restaurant in a soon-to-be-vacated location in Midtown. For the Houston concept, McKinney had proposed an idea that merged Southern coastal cooking with the city’s multifaceted internationalism. As he got deeper into the project, though, he started…
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