A Puerto Rican flag and a Philippines flag flank the ordering window of the Yammy’s Filipino Letchon truck, in Round Rock, just north of Austin. Meriam Soto, the matriarch of the family business, hails from the Philippines, and her husband, Santos Soto, is Puerto Rican. Both cultures have distinct cuisines, but they share a love for lechon. At its most basic, lechon is a small pig cooked whole on a rotating spit until the skin is crisp and the meat is tender. Yammy’s serves a simplified version of just pork belly at the truck. It’s exceptional—but the business owes its genesis to a particularly bad lechon.A decade ago, Meriam wanted a whole roasted pig for the holidays, as is traditional for Filipino families. “I ordered…
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