This review almost didn’t happen. Nabbing 2 of the 24 seats at Petit Coquin, a buzzy restaurant that opened in February, proved tricky. It seemed that the San Antonio Express-News giving the bistro a five-star review had diners excited. But after watching reservation-website notifications closely (and sending some direct messages on Instagram), I finally got in—just in time for my deadline. Petit Coquin (“little rascal”) is likely not what you’re picturing. The stereotypical Texas French restaurant tends toward spacious and lavishly decorated, like Brasserie Mon Chou Chou, also in San Antonio, or Toulouse Cafe and Bar, with locations in Dallas, Plano, and Houston. On occasion, I’m a fan of these big, brassy temples to escargot and crème brûlée, but there are also times when I prefer…
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