In May I walked into a Chili’s Grill & Bar for the first time in a decade. I quickly adjusted to the sensory overload. My table was covered with a giant laminated menu, a paper tent pushing the restaurant’s margaritas and fajitas, and an electronic device for playing games and paying the bill. At this location—in Irving, just a few miles from the chain’s headquarters, in the Dallas suburb of Coppell—several TVs projected baseball games, but the young couples enjoying their late lunches and the high schoolers doing math homework with a side of fries seemed to ignore them. A server approached me. Might I like to try the new Big QP Burger (the Chili’s alternative to the McDonald’s Quarter Pounder) or perhaps a Chicken Crispers…
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