Bo Moreno grew up in Austin but spent his summers with his paternal grandparents in Odem, near Corpus Christi. On Sunday mornings his grandmother would prepare breakfast, and he would ride the few miles to Sinton with his grandfather to pick up barbacoa. Moreno can’t recall the name of the now closed shop they went to, but, he says, “I can tell you how to get there.” Eggs, refried beans, and tortillas were everyday breakfast foods, but barbacoa was a monthly treat, an experience he tries to re-create with his Sundays-only version at Moreno Barbecue, in Austin.Moreno doesn’t use the whole cow head, as the cooks in Sinton did. Instead, he makes his only with beef cheeks. “You don’t get that greasy and gritty taste,”…
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