The small, plump jalapeño has long been a part of Texas’s foodways, from being an easy backyard crop to a staple of comida casera. More than fifty years ago, though, the chile started a slow decline when it became a lab specimen.Scientists at what is now Texas A&M University’s AgriLife Research began tinkering with the jalapeño’s genetics to make it less spicy. The demand started with commercial processors and manufacturers of such grocery-aisle products as salsas, canned chiles, and spice mixes. Apparently, the standard jalapeño was too hot for the mass market. Even hot sauce companies were asking for a milder jalapeño because they didn’t want to cut down on spice with more bell peppers. “That has a different flavor,” says Kevin Crosby, a professor…
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