Chicken is the most mysterious protein in Texas barbecue. Unlike with brisket, ribs, or pulled pork, whose naked form on butcher paper reveals much about its quality at just a glance, a smoked chicken’s condition remains veiled by its skin. Sure, a glossy sauce or pebbly rub can provide some clues, but you must dismantle a bird to find out whether it’s succulent or (the horror) desiccated.Many value-minded customers are willing to take that risk, especially when the cost of beef is at an all-time high. Next to eye-popping brisket prices, roughly $8 to $12 for a half chicken is attractive. (The most I’ve ever paid for a half chicken at a Texas barbecue joint was $42, which is certainly more comparable to brisket.) But…
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