For a long while in Marshall, a town of 23,000 in far northeast Texas, there wasn’t a place where you could purchase a glass of wine. Like many other towns and counties in the region, it elected to go dry several years before the start of Prohibition and effectively remained so for decades after its repeal. Marshall’s folly was ironic because since at least the 1870s it considered itself “the Athens of Texas” because of its relatively well-educated citizenry and, eventually, its abundance of colleges. The Greeks, after all, were fueled by their viticulture, but that fact apparently found no purchase in a town with two Baptist churches (the Prohibitionists’ house of worship) flanking the courthouse square.So when I visited Marshall in the fall, armed…
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