Walking through San Antonio’s new 40,000-square-foot specialty grocer and eatery, Pullman Market, I couldn’t help but draw parallels to my first time visiting Eataly in New York’s Flatiron District. Swap the aisles of fresh mozz (though Pullman has that too) and Italian wine bar with fresh-off-the-press tortillas and a mezcal bar, and you have the Pearl’s latest addition. I toured the massive market from Austin’s Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group in early April with an animating question on my mind: Does the Pearl need another food court? In addition to several restaurants—including Ladino, another Emmer & Rye spot—at the endlessly growing development north of downtown, the Food Hall at the Pearl houses a collection of fine grab-and-go restaurants where shoppers can pick up barbecue, fried chicken,…
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