The first time I saw tacos nestled in a heart-shaped box was in 2020 on the Netflix series Gentefied. The show focuses on one Mexican American family’s struggles to save their taqueria while their Los Angeles neighborhood, Boyle Heights, undergoes “gentefication”—a Spanglish twist on gentrification driven by the return of grown Latino children resettling at home.Character Ana Morales offers tacos instead of the more traditional bouquet of flowers as a romantic mea culpa. She shows up at her girlfriend’s apartment after a spat and opens a box full of them while smiling in penitence. Soon after, it became a meme. Then, it seems, restaurants and food trucks—from Fresno to Des Moines to cities across Texas—took hold of a concept as a holiday marketing opportunity. They…
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