To understand Texas, one must visit El Paso and San Antonio. Both cities are important to Texas history—including Segundo Barrio and the Alamo, respectively—and to its food, from chile colorado to chile con carne and flaky tortillas to pillowy tortillas. Many forget, though, that burritos are also a big part of their culinary traditions, since tacos tend to get all the shine. Jorge Flores is here to remind us with Burritos Frontera, his pop-up specializing in bringing El Paso-Juárez- style burritos to San Antonio. I visited the July pop-up, located at San Antonio Gold coffee shop, in the Freight Gallery and Studios, located near the King William Historic District. Flores started serving at 9 a.m., but by the time I got there, at 10:15, he had…
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