Is it our imagination or are Texas restaurants more, well, imaginative than ever? On our visit to an idiosyncratic spot in the Gulf Coast town of Kemah, we were treated to billowing dry ice, a blowtorch, and a pasta creation that was a dead ringer for a coral snake. In Dallas, we settled into a long, narrow dining room that looked as if it had been uncoupled from the Orient Express. In Fort Worth, we were sure that characters in The Crown would have felt right at home in a convincing replica of a posh London townhouse. Of course, not everything we loved this past year was stagy. One of our favorite venues was a comfy little place in Houston where guests can order Japanese…
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