The summer sun is slip-sliding away when my pal Courtney and I arrive at a labyrinthine two-story compound that houses our destination: Ishtia, an unexpectedly experimental restaurant in the stunningly improbable location of Kemah, a coastal town of about two thousand souls 25 miles southeast of Houston. We have semi-starved ourselves in preparation for the evening’s entertainment: a twenty-course menu dreamed up by chef David Skinner, who has more than once been called the Willy Wonka of food. For the past ten years, he presided over an ambitious, often fantastical menu at Eculent, his previous restaurant in this spot. In April he set that aside to take a different direction: the foodways of Indigenous peoples throughout the Americas. He is a tribal Choctaw member and…
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