Luby’s, the local cafeteria chain founded in San Antonio in 1947, is a bona fide icon of commercial Texas gastronomy. Ask any Texan of a certain age and they’ll confirm it. The restaurants are much less ubiquitous than they were in their mid-nineties heyday, when more than two hundred locations were spread across Texas and ten other states (there are currently a mere thirty-eight, all in Texas). But the experience of entering one today offers a nostalgic touchstone of a bygone (or bygoing) Texas culinary tradition.For many a Luby’s patron, the allegiance began in childhood. Such was the case in my own story, set in Temple’s 1960s-eraTown and Country Mall Luby’s location, where my family would end up on most Sundays around lunchtime.Each trip was…
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