I recently ate one of the best versions of pea salad I’ve ever had at a barbecue joint. At Smokesmith in Coleman, chef Laurie Williamson—the James Beard Award–nominated culinary brain behind nearby Rancho Loma and and Rancho Pizzeria—tosses sweet peas with bacon, chunks of Gouda, and diced hard-boiled eggs. While it’s not a common side at barbecue restaurants, a few versions exist out there, but some make the grave mistake of using canned peas.Fresh peas would be best, but thawed frozen peas work just as well. Starting there—with the correct main ingredient—is half the battle for an exemplary rendition of this underrated side. The most common companions for the peas are cheese, bacon, and onions, to add some fat and flavor (I prefer shallots because…
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