At the Water Stop, a restaurant on the west side of Marfa, co-ownerRebecca Bockelie greets customers, takes orders, brings food, and cleans up—all with her toddler Lucien strapped to her chest. The last time my wife and I were there, Bockelie-avec-Lucien had a spray bottle of cleaner in her left hand and a bowl of pasta in her right. Soon the pasta was replaced by a candle and then a glass of wine. Lucien didn’t seem to mind, and neither did Bockelie, who never seems overwhelmed. She’s always friendly and knows everyone who comes in, even people she’s never actually met.On a Monday night earlier this year, the Water Stop was packed. It’s one of the only places in Marfa that’s open on Monday. In…
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