Enchiladas suizas are a tale of two sauces: traditional Mexican tomatillo and decadent cream. As legend has it, a chef at the restaurant in a Sanborns department store in Mexico City invented the dish in 1950, becoming the first person to unite this duo for chicken enchiladas. The word “suiza” refers to Switzerland, and there are a number of possible reasons the dish ended up with this name. Most likely, it’s because the Swiss are known for their dairy-heavy cuisine—the association is similar to how, as cookbook writer Robb Walsh points out, La Lechera sweetened condensed milk is branded with a logo of a Swiss milkmaid. In any case, the creamy, tangy, savory enchilada sauce now defines a comfort food classic on both sides of the border. This…
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