When I pulled up to Smoky Buns, in Round Rock, a suburb just north of Austin, on a recent Friday, I immediately recognized the silhouette of the food truck. Long before he was known as the Sausage Sensei, Bill Dumas fed me some of his early recipes from that window a decade ago, when it had the Smokey Denmark’s name painted on the side. Many of the best barbecue meals I’ve eaten were ordered from the vehicle after it was painted blue with the LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue logo in 2017. Jesse Escobedo saw the trailer for sale after LeRoy and Lewis moved into its brick-and-mortar last year. He admittedly lowballed co-owner Sawyer Lewis, but she eventually accepted. Now it’s home to Smoky Buns, which…
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