Tucked into a far corner of San Angelo, Western Sky Steakhouse sits unassumingly between a bright orange taqueria and the Sands Motel. I’ve been coming here for as long as I can remember, and its steaks are the only ones I’ll eat when I visit home (aside from my dad’s, of course). It’s so intertwined with my life that at one point last year, a billboard with my cousin’s smiling face advertising a local pediatric clinic rose above the parking lot. With its metal roof, beige exterior, and dirt lot, Western Sky doesn’t look like much, but it might as well be Ruth’s Chris to the cowboys who come through town every rodeo season. When the ropers and riders visit for the stock show and rodeo…
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