The steel cabinet smoker at Brian’s Bar-B-Q in Clute, about an hour south of Houston, holds a thousand pounds of meat. Brian Devine helped build it and installed it with his wife, MaryAnne, when they opened their joint in 1988. Twenty years ago, they added a rotisserie smoker, also built by Brian, to handle pork shoulders and briskets. Now those smokers pull double duty, producing all the meat for both Brian’s and the Fill Station, another joint less than five miles away, owned and operated by Devine’s sons, Kent and Kyle, along with their cousin Kevin Rosenbohm.After finding a seat at Brian’s Bar-B-Q, I took in the menagerie of fish, fowl, and fauna hanging on the walls. A framed article announcing its opening explained the…
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