Brian Heath hasn’t yet tried the wine that’s being poured into my glass and his. We’re tasting a sparkler at his Invention Vineyards, located just five miles from downtown Fredericksburg. “We just disgorged it three weeks ago,” he says, referring to the clarification process fundamental to la méthode traditionnelle, the classical way of making sparkling wine. He nods with satisfaction after taking a sip. The 2024 Euphoria, made solely of chenin blanc grapes from the Texas High Plains, is peachy, floral, and gloriously fizzy. I can see why Heath has spent over $5 million bringing the French technique to the Hill Country.Before the 2020s, sparkling wine in Texas was more rustic. William Chris Vineyards, in Hye, for example, has produced a wildly popular pétillant naturel…
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