You could be forgiven for thinking that the last thing Tiffany Derry needed was another restaurant. The chef had her hands full with Roots Southern Table, the Farmers Branch venue she opened to considerable acclaim in 2021. On top of that, she was busy babying along the two locations of her fast-food joint, Roots Chicken Shak, which she knew could go national. But Derry and her business partner, Tom Foley, hungered for a new concept. At a meeting, she mentioned how much she loved Italy. After graduating from culinary school at the Art Institute of Houston, she’d embarked on a tour of the country, eating regional specialties, wheedling recipes from cooks, and soaking up the culture. As it turned out, Foley was just as passionate. “My…
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