Barbecue has become one of Texas’s most popular exports, but an important aspect of meat market–style barbecue is too often lost in translation. I support the brisket evangelists who choose to set up shop from San Diego to Portland, Maine. Most of them understand the value of sausage-making, cooking with all wood, and serving barbecue sauce on the side. Those who take their cues from Central Texas sell smoked meats by the pound like the meat markets of Luling, Lockhart, and Taylor. Some of them, though, need to familiarize themselves with the power of their scales.When eating barbecue alone, which is often when I’m on the road, I ask for a couple ribs, a single slice of smoked turkey, and maybe a slice each of…
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