The air had turned frigid thanks to an arctic front that had muscled its way down to San Antonio, but steaming hot water beckoned. My wife and I carefully climbed three icy wooden steps and then immersed ourselves in an outdoor cedar tub big enough for two. Submerged up to our necks, we spent the next hour soaking while we sipped wine and nibbled on charcuterie.The tub was filled with water from an underground reservoir that has been soothing Texans for 135 years. These days it is being tapped by Camp Hot Wells, which opened last year next to the ruins of a resort that once attracted pilgrims from across the country. When the Hot Wells Hotel opened, in 1901, guests could easily get there…
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